.וַיִּסַּע אַבְרָם, הָלוֹךְ וְנָסוֹעַ הַנֶּגְבָּה
And Abram journeyed, going on still toward the South. In the Hebrew it’s written Negba or toward the Negev.
Unlike our forefather however, I didn’t have to pretend that my wife was my sister for fear of death at the hands of Pharos’ henchmen. Of course, I didn’t get any oxen, he-asses or maid-servants out of the deal either. When I entered the former land of Canaan I just got 1250 NIS (new Israeli Shekels) cash, a little book and a bunch of papers that identified me as an Oleh Chadash (new immigrant), and a free taxi ride to anywhere in the country. This is what is given to all new immigrants at the airport. Not as good as Abraham’s lot, but not to bad.
After trying out my new Hebrew signature several dozen times on many documents, we gathered our bags and found our ground transport. Our taxi driver’s name was Shalom and he was great. Between him and Carolina, there was lively banter all the way to Mitzpe Ramon
– all in Hebrew of course. I was pleased with my level of comprehension. I still don’t understand everything though, which gives me a good excuse for spacing out while others are talking – something I very much like to do especially after a long flight.Shalom had bought drinks for the trip and refused to let us pay, saying he was happy to buy something for young people like us returning to Israel. We saw pictures of his grandkids and exchanged stories of global travels. After three hours or so, we arrived at Mitzpe at my in-laws home. Our driver came up to the apartment and was offered not just coffee and a bathroom but was invited to stay for dinner. We insisted he didn’t help anymore with the six 50lb bags we were schlepping. He rested for a bit, drank his coffee, wished us luck then hit the road. This is a very different type of cab driver/rider relationship than one would find in the states. That’s Israel. There is still a sense of solidarity between the people – that we’re all in it together, one family fighting the same fight.
So Avram got his camels and whatnot and I got my cash and paperwork. For all that these things differ, the landscapes we saw on our trips were at times identical. I love southern Israel. For many it’s the forgotten area: Bedouins, camels, sand, crappy little depressed town. Many tourists never make their way Negba. I think they’re missing a lot.The south is the most biblical place for me. It’s where I feel most connected to the Patriarchs and Matriarchs and to how they may have lived. It’s quiet. The kind of quiet where the slow wind is the only sound. A place so quite that God might chose it to speak to someone - and where someone might have a chance of hearing. The days are hot and sunny; the nights are cool, dark and starry. In Mitzpe Ramon, which is situated on the edge of a naturally formed crater, you can walk five minutes out of town in any direction and feel like you’re on another planet. Living in the Negev, one senses his place in the natural surroundings. It’s inescapable. Every time you step outside you see that the wilderness is vast and that you are small.
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Ya’elim (Ibix) that have come to far into town. A mother stopped her van and made her kids chase them back toward the crater. A typical scene in Mitzpe.
Taken just outside of town. Not exactly professional footage I realize, but it does give you a feel for the land and the crater.
